Another Robbery
30/03/08 21:26
Today Günter had his camera snatched in broad daylight around 14:00 while in the heavily policed Pelourinho in Cidade Alta. Manfred, the other Austrian yachtie said he knows of 8 yachties who have been mugged/robbed in recent weeks.
Salvador is the #2 tourist destination in Brazil after Rio but after a week I'm struggling to see why. The location is quite stunning on cliffs along the shore of Bahia de Todos os Santos and the colonial architecture of the Pelhourinho is attractive but many buildings are badly neglected and it is difficult to relax given the very high risk of assault.
A very large, very fast french built trimaran at Centro Nautico marina.
Salvador is the #2 tourist destination in Brazil after Rio but after a week I'm struggling to see why. The location is quite stunning on cliffs along the shore of Bahia de Todos os Santos and the colonial architecture of the Pelhourinho is attractive but many buildings are badly neglected and it is difficult to relax given the very high risk of assault.
A very large, very fast french built trimaran at Centro Nautico marina.
Samba and Attempted Robbery
29/03/08 22:33
This morning I attempted to buy a new halyard. The chandler did not take foreign credit cards. I took a taxi back to a cash machine but when I returned the chandler had closed until moday. Grrr.
That evening I found another tourist office which had a bit more information about what was going on in the Cidade Alta. I ended up going to the Theatroxviii, for a performance of O Amor Comeau of which I understood very little, and attending two Salsa peformances. One at the Colonial on Terreiro de Jesus and then at a bar on Rua San Miguel. The music at both was very high energy and the dancing very entertaining. Brazilian girls certainly know how to wiggle. The audience at both were predominately Afro-Brazilian with only a few gringos present.
My evening ended prematurely after a couple of youths tried to work a double and pick my pockets in the second venue. This was a waste of time anyway as I had heeded the warnings and only had a few Reals on me. Having failed they came back a few minutes later and demanded money saying they had a gun, which they didn't. I decided to leave and the good side of Brazil emerged when someone who had seen what happened followed me out and suggested I speak to the Policia Militar who were nearby. I said it wasn't necessary and he apologised and wished me well.
A very large, very fast french built trimaran at Centro Nautico marina.
That evening I found another tourist office which had a bit more information about what was going on in the Cidade Alta. I ended up going to the Theatroxviii, for a performance of O Amor Comeau of which I understood very little, and attending two Salsa peformances. One at the Colonial on Terreiro de Jesus and then at a bar on Rua San Miguel. The music at both was very high energy and the dancing very entertaining. Brazilian girls certainly know how to wiggle. The audience at both were predominately Afro-Brazilian with only a few gringos present.
My evening ended prematurely after a couple of youths tried to work a double and pick my pockets in the second venue. This was a waste of time anyway as I had heeded the warnings and only had a few Reals on me. Having failed they came back a few minutes later and demanded money saying they had a gun, which they didn't. I decided to leave and the good side of Brazil emerged when someone who had seen what happened followed me out and suggested I speak to the Policia Militar who were nearby. I said it wasn't necessary and he apologised and wished me well.
A very large, very fast french built trimaran at Centro Nautico marina.
Window installation
28/03/08 08:11
Günter Reindl on Cora Mae has been in Brazil for some time and knows Salvador quite well. He introduced me to an excellent little cafe in the Pelourinho.
In the afternoon I helped him with some boat repairs and re-installed my window. This is always a messy job as the sealant is squeezed out when the frame is tightened into position. The trick is to wait until the sealant has started to set before tightening.
Window frame with old sealant removed. The gelcoat had been damaged at original installation. This was repaired with epoxy filler.
Later I spent the evening on Cora Mae being treated to Günter's cooking and music.
In the afternoon I helped him with some boat repairs and re-installed my window. This is always a messy job as the sealant is squeezed out when the frame is tightened into position. The trick is to wait until the sealant has started to set before tightening.
Window frame with old sealant removed. The gelcoat had been damaged at original installation. This was repaired with epoxy filler.
Later I spent the evening on Cora Mae being treated to Günter's cooking and music.
Security
27/03/08 08:04
Security is always on ones mind. There are warnings about going anywhere on foot at night and even walking up the hill to Cidade Alta during the day. Tourists are advised to dress down and avoid carrying large amounts of money, cameras and mobiles and to avoid wearing a watch.
Today I took a taxi out to Shopping Barra. This is huge and covers three stories where it is possible to wander about and shop in complete safety.
On thursday another Austrian yacht "Cora Mae" arrived skippered by Günter Reindl a chef, musician and bon vivant.
It is looking as though it is too late in the year to sail comfortably to Argentina. As the southern winter approaches the prevailing wind moves to east of south. One option is to leave the boat here in Salvador and continue on to Argentina by other means. I can spend only six months in any one year in Brazil but the boat may be left for up to two years.
Today I took a taxi out to Shopping Barra. This is huge and covers three stories where it is possible to wander about and shop in complete safety.
On thursday another Austrian yacht "Cora Mae" arrived skippered by Günter Reindl a chef, musician and bon vivant.
It is looking as though it is too late in the year to sail comfortably to Argentina. As the southern winter approaches the prevailing wind moves to east of south. One option is to leave the boat here in Salvador and continue on to Argentina by other means. I can spend only six months in any one year in Brazil but the boat may be left for up to two years.
Boat Maintenance
26/03/08 21:01
Today this jack-up oil rig Petrobras AS III moored next to the marina.
I needed to do some boat maintenance including re-sealing the large starboard window which now leaked profusely, replacing the fuel tank O-ring, replacing the main halyard which has started to show signs of wear probably caused by poorly sited turning blocks. The engine oil is also due to be changed.
The window frame came out fairly easily. It was annoying to note that the leak was caused by poor original installation. Insufficient sealant had been applied.
Window frame showing water ingress.
With the widow removed the leak source became obvious at the top left corner where it had not been sealed properly.
There are numerous places close to the marina selling freshly squeezed fruit juices which are just sublime as is cooled coconut milk drunk by straw from the green nut.
I needed to do some boat maintenance including re-sealing the large starboard window which now leaked profusely, replacing the fuel tank O-ring, replacing the main halyard which has started to show signs of wear probably caused by poorly sited turning blocks. The engine oil is also due to be changed.
The window frame came out fairly easily. It was annoying to note that the leak was caused by poor original installation. Insufficient sealant had been applied.
Window frame showing water ingress.
With the widow removed the leak source became obvious at the top left corner where it had not been sealed properly.
There are numerous places close to the marina selling freshly squeezed fruit juices which are just sublime as is cooled coconut milk drunk by straw from the green nut.
Cidade Alta and the Pelourinho
25/03/08 22:58
After a couple of days I finally took the Lacerda Elevator up to Cidade Alta and the historic area known as the Pelourinho. Salvador was the first city in Brazil and has a wonderful legacy of colonial buildings. Unfortunately many of them are unloved and restoration efforts do not seem as far advanced as in Recife.
Lacerda elevator connecting Cidade Alta and Cidade Baixa. This is a lovely structure but most of the buildings surrounding it are derelict. It is dangerous for gringos after 8-9 at night.
Views of the Pelourinho in Cidade Alta
Recife is said to be the most dangerous city in Brazil. I saw nothing which would support this. However Salvador is #2 in that roll of shame but it looks and feels more dangerous. In Salvador many police carry 2 sidearms. I wonder why.
Compared with Recife the tourist office was unhelpful and it was difficult to find ones way around generally and in particular music venues.
Lacerda elevator connecting Cidade Alta and Cidade Baixa. This is a lovely structure but most of the buildings surrounding it are derelict. It is dangerous for gringos after 8-9 at night.
Views of the Pelourinho in Cidade Alta
Recife is said to be the most dangerous city in Brazil. I saw nothing which would support this. However Salvador is #2 in that roll of shame but it looks and feels more dangerous. In Salvador many police carry 2 sidearms. I wonder why.
Compared with Recife the tourist office was unhelpful and it was difficult to find ones way around generally and in particular music venues.
Check In
24/03/08 21:50
Today I did the usual round of visits to the Police Federal, Receita Federal and Capitania dos Portos. It didn't take long and I was able to get some charts I needed from the Capitania dos Portos. Here the Receita Federal did not want to see us saying they were only interested in our final departure from Brazil.
Beautifully kept grounds and buildings housing the Brazilian Navy regional office.
Even the paving has a naval theme.
More of the navy compound. Within a few minutes of this naval base the street is unsafe to walk day or night.
New yachts arrive and others depart. The overwhelming majority of boats here are french. I saw the french yacht we had moored alongside in Mindelo, Cape Verdes. He had had to motor for 5 days through the doldrums while we crossed further west and sailed right through
Beautifully kept grounds and buildings housing the Brazilian Navy regional office.
Even the paving has a naval theme.
More of the navy compound. Within a few minutes of this naval base the street is unsafe to walk day or night.
New yachts arrive and others depart. The overwhelming majority of boats here are french. I saw the french yacht we had moored alongside in Mindelo, Cape Verdes. He had had to motor for 5 days through the doldrums while we crossed further west and sailed right through
Cidade Baixa
23/03/08 20:47
After my first attempt at a run ashore yesterday ended in rapid retreat I confined my movements to the marina and immediate environs.
Neglected buildings in Cidade Baixa.
Manfred Marktel, the distinguished Austrian yachtsman and writer who has covered 120,000 miles in his 36ft steel yacht Maus is moored here. He recently completed a solo round trip from Salvador to South Georgia. He gave me a well produced film and photo library of this trip.
Neglected buildings in Cidade Baixa.
Manfred Marktel, the distinguished Austrian yachtsman and writer who has covered 120,000 miles in his 36ft steel yacht Maus is moored here. He recently completed a solo round trip from Salvador to South Georgia. He gave me a well produced film and photo library of this trip.
Move to Centro Nautica.
22/03/08 22:24
Yesterday evening I was told about another marina, Centro Nautica, which barely got a mention in the pilot book.
After chatting with the german skipper moored next to me I decided to move. He had ventured outside Bahia Marina on foot and started to walk up to Cidade Alta. He was attacked by 5 youths with machetes and a dog. One knee was slashed by machete and the other savaged by the dog. His backpack, camera and money were taken.
Bahia Marina has good facilities but it's exposure to surge, dangerous location and high cost make it a poor option.
We left at 09:30 and after stopping to fill up with fuel in Bahia Marina (R$1.89 per litre) we motored around to the Centro Nautico where we moored on the inside of Pontoon A at 10:40.
Approaching Centro Nautico.
Fort guarding the bay in which Centro Nautico is located
Marina pontoons at Centro Nautico.
The cost at this marina is around R$21 per day and the facilities, while not to Marina Bahia standard, are pretty good. This is where most cruising yachts moor and there is a friendly atmosphere. Several yachties appeared and helped with mooring.
The location is much more central with good security. I spent the rest of the day pottering around the boat and did not leave the marina.
After chatting with the german skipper moored next to me I decided to move. He had ventured outside Bahia Marina on foot and started to walk up to Cidade Alta. He was attacked by 5 youths with machetes and a dog. One knee was slashed by machete and the other savaged by the dog. His backpack, camera and money were taken.
Bahia Marina has good facilities but it's exposure to surge, dangerous location and high cost make it a poor option.
We left at 09:30 and after stopping to fill up with fuel in Bahia Marina (R$1.89 per litre) we motored around to the Centro Nautico where we moored on the inside of Pontoon A at 10:40.
Approaching Centro Nautico.
Fort guarding the bay in which Centro Nautico is located
Marina pontoons at Centro Nautico.
The cost at this marina is around R$21 per day and the facilities, while not to Marina Bahia standard, are pretty good. This is where most cruising yachts moor and there is a friendly atmosphere. Several yachties appeared and helped with mooring.
The location is much more central with good security. I spent the rest of the day pottering around the boat and did not leave the marina.